Heart of the old French Quarter
Recognized by many architectural historians and preservationists as one of the most important buildings in New Orleans history, the French Opera House towered over the corner of Toulouse and Bourbon Streets for sixty years and withstood some of the most impactful events the city has ever witnessed. Completed in November 1859, less than two years before the start of the Civil War, the “new” French Opera House stood as one of the last symbols of a Creole society that had been present in New Orleans for more than a century.
For its design and construction, the New Orleans Opera House Company—formed just a month before the project’s groundbreaking—employed the top local architects, builders, and craftsmen of their day. What resulted was by all accounts an elegant, commodious structure both inside and out.
For many, the opera in the late nineteenth century provided a welcome escape from the disease-ridden city, seemingly in constant mourning for victims of yellow fever and cholera, and a place where a diverse group of citizens (and before the Civil War, enslaved people) could enjoy a performance in the same building, if not in the same tier. When it burned one hundred years ago, Lyle Saxon, wrote in Fabulous New Orleans that “The heart of the old French Quarter has stopped beating.”
A Temple of Song
New Orleans was the first American city to offer opera as entertainment. In 1796, the Théâtre St. Pierre, staged the city’s first documented opera, André Ernest Grétry’s Sylvain. The Théâtre Saint-Philippe opened in 1808, and the Théâtre d’Orléans in October 1815, after being delayed because of the Battle of New Orleans. Under the leadership of Saint-Domingue native John Davis and his son Pierre, the Orléans remained the city’s most important venue for concerts, operas, and balls until the 1850s. In the second quarter of the nineteenth century, theaters featuring English-language productions opened: James Caldwell’s Camp Street Theatre, the New American Theatre, and the Saint Charles Theatre, which, when it opened in 1835, was the largest hall in the nation.
New Orleans-born impresario and husband of soprano Julie Calvé, Charles Boudousquié succeeded Pierre Davis as director of the Théâtre d’Orléans in 1853. In 1858 Henry Parlange purchased the Théâtre d’Orléans from the estate of businessman and philanthropist John McDonough. When Boudousquié and Parlange were unable to come to terms on the building’s lease, some of the opera’s oldest and wealthiest supporters formed the New Orleans Opera House Company and set out to erect a new building. As The Sunday Delta of December 4, 1859 declared, this “Temple of Song”, the new Opera House, “should combine elegance and simplicity with the greatest degree of comfort possible.”
The French Opera House Building
On April 18, 1859, locally renowned architects and builders James Gallier Jr. and George Esterbrook signed a contract with the Opera Company to have the French Opera House building ready by the first of November of the same year. At least one other architect, J.N.B. De Pouilly, had made designs for the Opera House, but completing a project on a grand scale in such a short time frame may have seemed impossible. The projected cost of the building and ground was about $200,000 and furnishings $50,000 more, according to the Daily Crescent, although the building contract had specified a $118,000 price tag. Esterbrook supervised the craftsmen, who included skilled stone masons, brick layers, plasterers, iron founders, slaters, plumbers, coppersmiths, and stair builders.
When the Opera House opened in December 1859, local newspapers described in detail its exterior and interior decoration, and lauded it as “a magnificent monument to [Gallier and Esterbrook’s] ability, taste, and energy.”
Italianate in style, the interior featured an elliptical ceiling that rose 58 feet above the floor of the pit. “Exquisite” ornaments stamped in zinc and gilt decorated the four tiers of galleries for spectators. According to The Sunday Delta’s in-depth tour of the Opera House, manager Charles Boudousquié chose these elements in Paris, and Mr. [Prudent] Mallard installed them. Flanking the stage stood four fluted Corinthian columns; the fillets and moldings of the shafts and bases were gilt, and they rested on pedestals painted and veined to imitate marble. Outside, an expansive gallery protected ladies entering and exiting their carriages in inclement weather.
Seating capacity was 1,600; with packed aisles and halls of standing spectators, the audience could reach up to 2,500. In addition to the pit, four tiers of gallery seats divided patrons by class and race. The first tier, a dress circle, consisted of 52 stalls with four seats each. The second dress circle contained eight open stalls and twenty latticed boxes, each with a small parlor behind it for receiving friends and resting during the entr’acte. The box’s lessee could fit out the parlor as he or she wished, and also had at his or her disposal the advice of in-demand local furniture manufacturer and dealer Prudent Mallard.
Near the first dress-circle seating was the 60-foot-long by 26-foot wide by 28-foot high grand saloon, described in The Sunday Delta’s detailed tour of the building as “lighted and ventilated by two heights of windows, with casement, sash and inside blinds…heated by two fireplaces with marble mantels…[with] two large center flowers…fixed in the ceiling, from which depend two large gas-chandeliers.” There was a Club Room set aside for wealthy patrons who had purchased stock to help build the Opera House.
The third tier, plainly furnished with seats without boxes or divisions, was, according to the Delta’s May 23rd description, “for the cheap admission of white people, and…equal to the pit.” The fourth and highest tier was for people of color. When a writer for the Daily Delta toured the newly opened Opera House, he noted how it was necessary to enter a separate door on the St. Louis Street side and climb “a stair which conducts one in a tortuous course” to access the “colored gallery”. An 1869 law would be the impetus for several lawsuits challenging the racial segregation of the Opera House.
Timeline
A Catalyst for Preservation
Late in the evening of December 3, 1919, following a rehearsal of Carmen, the French Opera House caught fire. To this day the source of the blaze remains unknown.
Originally the building contained two lead-lined wooden reservoirs, each holding 3,500 gallons of water, with pipes that could be connected to hoses for fire protection. Whether or not an updated system had been installed since then, none of these provisions could save the building from destruction. Firefighters fought the blaze, but barely a shell remained.
Within months of the fire, French Quarter citizens and businesses, aware of a decline in the reputation of their neighborhood, at first vowed to rebuild the Opera House. That idea never came to fruition, but the year 1919 was a pivotal point in the history of New Orleans’s preservation movement. From 1921 to 1937 several groups formed to focus on beautification, restoration, and preservation of the Quarter. Such local groups as the Vieux Carré Property Owners, Residents, and Associates (VCPORA) organized; the City Council created the Vieux Carré Commission to protect the neighborhood’s architectural and historic character; and national programs like the Works Progress Administration and the Historic American Buildings Survey brought attention to what historic buildings had been or could be lost without further action.
As Tulane University geographer and historian Richard Campanella has noted, “Preservationists need not be reminded of the power of old buildings. We recognize them as testaments of social memory, artifacts of architecture and vessels of culture, and we know all too well how their razing lays the groundwork for historical amnesia.” The destruction of the French Opera House building resulted not only in a physical void but a social one, leaving the city’s Creole populations without a central space for entertainment.
For almost forty years the lot at the corner of Bourbon and Toulouse sat vacant, until 1965, when developers erected the five-story Downtowner Motor Inn. Today, the Four Points by Sheraton occupies the location.